Pici Toscani Alla Bolognese at Sirio

Italians really don’t eat spaghetti with meatballs, which are called polpette on Italian menus and are eaten occasionally as appetizers. But they do eat pastas with a rich meat ragu, such as this classic one prepared by chef Vincenzo Scarmiglia. Made with veal and rich stock, plus carrots and seasonings, it is the best bolognese in town. Pici, a thick Roman spaghetti, absorbs it perfectly, along with a touch of grated parmigiano. $19 (appetizer), $29 (entrée), in Aria at CityCenter, 590-7111.