Have You Been Missing Out?

Discover one of the best steak deals in town, at the newly revamped Twin Creeks

Photo by: Anthony MairTwin Creeks’ newly remodeled dining room is tasty, too.

There is a lot to cheer about at the Silverton these days. CEO Craig Cavileer recently announced that he would restore part of employees’ slashed salaries, and a new menu and thorough renovation have made its steak house, Twin Creeks, a compelling off-Strip destination.

Mains from the “Classics” portion of the menu may be—no kidding—the best deal in Las Vegas. How about a bone-in rib-eye with blue cheese and bourbon barbecue sauce, plus a choice of salads and two side dishes—such as the terrific house creamed corn, a fully dressed baked potato or tender steamed asparagus—all for $27?

The $3 million makeover included a “wave wall” at the back of the restaurant, plus lushly upholstered booths into which you can sink while enjoying one of the boutique bourbons from an impressive list. Cocktails, furthermore, are terrific here. Try the Blackberry Crush, an icy, refreshing drink that’s like a mojito.

I dined here on a Wednesday evening and was disappointed to find the room only half full. All I could think of was that locals don’t know what they are missing. From 6-8 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday the restaurant serves a half-price, wide-ranging menu of tapas, including stuffed mushrooms, bacon-wrapped dates, goat-cheese-filled piquillo peppers and (my personal favorite here) roasted new potatoes with chipotle mayonnaise.

Executive chef Jason Bradley has quite an imagination. I ate my way through seven small plates, including springy meatballs and fragrant smoked salmon on toast points, before attacking an excellent salt-and-pepper-crusted prime rib, beautifully pink in the center.

The potato and creamed corn were both exemplary, but I do have a bone to pick with the Chop Chop Salad included with the dinner. I recently had an amazing chopped salad at Society at the Wynn Encore made with organic turkey and avocado, tomatoes, bacon and a touch of lettuce. Now that’s what I call a chopped salad. The Twin Creeks’ version is 80 percent iceberg, the most boring vegetable on earth. The salad’s bacon lardoons, however, are as good as bacon gets.

You’ll pay slightly more for the a la carte menu, but the prices are still well under those in steak houses a few miles north on Las Vegas Boulevard. What’s more, this menu is filled with arresting choices: lobster bisque, enormous pan-roasted scallops, sesame-crusted ahi, rack of lamb and good prime steaks, all done with expert skill.

The only thing the restaurant lacks, actually, is a pastry chef. At the moment, it is looking for one, so you’ll have to be mollified by the desserts the restaurant gets from local purveyors.

I was not. The chocolate Oreo cake I ordered had freezer burn. It always baffles me that a restaurant will sink millions of dollars into a place and overlook such a critical element of the experience.

On the other hand, I’m also baffled as to why anyone would pay $40 for a bare hunk of beef, minus the salad and sides, when one that is every bit as good is available for a third less.

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