Caramelized Sea Scallops at Society Café

This new dish has all the tastes of summer. In a fabulous presentation, pancetta is delicately placed upon caramelized sea scallops alongside watermelon and an arugula salad with Minus 8 vinegar. It tastes just as good as it looks! $29, in Encore, 248-3463.

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“I love where chardonnays are going today,” Napa Valley (Calif.) winemaker Florencia Palmaz says. The Amalia chard (named for her mother) started as a mere side project at the Palmaz winery; now, you’re lucky if you can wrestle a bottle away from her wine club members. The California chardonnay pendulum is swinging back toward center, she explained to me, returning from the overly rich, über-oaked ‘80s and ‘90s. And the steely, flinty, sternly un-oaked Chablis-style chards I fell for in the early aughts were a rough antithesis.