Beef Wellington at Eiffel Tower

Chef Joung Sohn prepares classic dishes by her boss and mentor, Jean Joho, and perhaps none is more of a throwback than this tenderloin of beef smeared with a mushroom puree and wrapped in puff pastry. Once, like Baked Alaska, it was the darling of the Continental menu. Now it’s a relic. $56, in Paris, 948-6937.