Light Group’s Chilean Sea Bass

If you’re a fan of the Patagonian toothfish, you can be twice happy since 1) The marketing folks put their thinking caps on and renamed it Chilean sea bass and 2) it’s handled exceptionally well at four Light Group restaurants: Fix, Stack, Brand and Union. The delicately flavored and pleasantly firm white filet is pan-roasted, then served in a pool of light lobster or shellfish broth along with risotto (creamy at Union and Fix, lemon at Brand, lobster at Stack) and Rock shrimp. $44, Fix in Bellagio, Brand in Monte Carlo and Union in Aria; $39 at Stack in The Mirage,

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