Meatballs at Martorano’s

Yes, we love the meatballs at Rao’s (and their lemon chicken as well), but they meet their match at the hands of the minced beef, veal and pork recipe served by Steve Martorano in his eponymous Rio restaurant. The chef, a good ol’ boy from south Philly with tattoos from head to toe, looks rather like Vin Diesel after a plate of Sunday gravy. $14, in the Rio, 777-7777,

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Bread Basket, STK

Dishing With Grace

Bread Basket, STK

By Grace Bascos

Some say it’s a sin to fill up on bread before a meal, but this starter at STK is worth paying that penance later. The soft, doughy bread arrives warm to the table, ready to be pulled apart. Soft blue-cheese butter is slathered all over the top, making for a rich and funky spread that is punched up when you dip a piece into the accompanying chive oil. The combination of the flavors infused through both oil and butter is explosive and decadent. Complimentary, in the Cosmopolitan, 698-7990.