Meatballs at Martorano’s

Yes, we love the meatballs at Rao’s (and their lemon chicken as well), but they meet their match at the hands of the minced beef, veal and pork recipe served by Steve Martorano in his eponymous Rio restaurant. The chef, a good ol’ boy from south Philly with tattoos from head to toe, looks rather like Vin Diesel after a plate of Sunday gravy. $14, in the Rio, 777-7777,