Thai Beef Salad at Lemongrass

Glancing around the menu of this pan-Asian restaurant isn’t as much fun as staring up at the bamboo shapes suspended from the ceiling, but eating from it certainly is. The chef, a young Thai native who worked at Bangkok’s Mandarin Oriental, hasn’t so much Americanized his menu as personalized it. And his yum nua (Thai beef salad), composed of basil, lemongrass, meltingly tender beef and, yes, grapes, is world-class. $22, in Aria at CityCenter, 590-8670.

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