David Myers

A classic dish shows off Comme Ça’s raw talent

Thirty-seven-year-old David Myers of Comme Ça sports a permanent three-day beard and short ponytail, a look as terminally hip as his food. You’d never guess he has one restaurant and two pâtisseries called Sola in Tokyo, Pizzeria Ortica at South Coast Plaza in Orange County and Comme Ça in West Hollywood, but yes, he’s that busy. At present he’s focused on a project at the historic Equitable Building on L.A.’s Hollywood Boulevard and Vine Street, and he’s working to reopen postmodern Sona in Southern California toward the end of the year.

Raised in Ohio, he worked his way up the food ladder by landing a job at Chicago’s Charlie Trotter. Trotter sent him off to work at the legendary Boyer in Reims, France, where Myers fell in love with the local cuisine and developed his passion for the brasserie. “I chose to give you a recipe for steak tartare because a good tartare is indicative of a good brasserie,” Myers says. Comme Ça Las Vegas certainly qualifies.

This dish is easy to prepare, but requires a little advance grocery shopping. At Comme Ça in the Cosmopolitan, the dish is served with a confit egg yolk and dollops of Dijon mustard on top of black slate.

Comme Ça Steak Tartare

(Serves 2)

  • 4½ ounces Wagyu beef, preferably Hanger steak, first ground and then finely minced, almost to a paste
  • 1 teaspoon finely minced shallot
  • 1 teaspoon lemon zest (use a microplane, if pos- sible)
  • 1½ teaspoon chopped chive
  • 1 tablespoon lemon oil
  • 1¾ teaspoons Tabasco 2 grams (less than a tablespoon) grated Parmesan cheese
  • ½ teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 4 ounces extra virgin olive oil for poaching
  • Salt and pepper
  • 3 thin slices of radish 3 watercress leaves
  • 3 cornichon
  • 1 slice brioche, toasted and cut into two triangles

In a pot, bring four ounces extra virgin olive oil to 140 degrees. Place the egg yolk in and let poach for 13 minutes. Remove and keep in a warm place. In a mixing bowl, combine the beef, Parmesan cheese, lemon zest and herbs. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Mix in the remaining olive oil, lemon zest, Tabasco and shallot. Place mixture on a plate and top with the warm egg yolk. Garnish the tartare with the watercress and radish salad. Place brioche toasts on the side.

Wine Pairing

David Myers Group wine director Mark Mendoza recommends Château d’Esclans “Whispering Angel” ’09, a rosé from Provençe, France, for the tartare. “It has bright acidity and spicy fruit that stands up to the beef, egg and mustard,” he says. It’s also a reasonable $52 per bottle on Comme Ça’s list and $16 at Total Wine & More.

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Beso, Eva Longoria’s dramatically designed restaurant at the edge of Crystals mall in CityCenter, has been largely ignored by the food press. So I decided to take a look, and was pleasantly surprised by what I discovered. Advertisements refer to it as a steak house and, indeed, the Harris Ranch Beef served here is great. I tried the 16-ounce filet and the 22-ounce bone-in rib-eye, charred medium-rare, and both were flavorful, tender and juicy. The massive Harris Ranch is on Interstate 5 in central California. You smell it before you see it, if you drive by.