Tuna Tacos at Fleur by Hubert Keller

After the Las Vegas outpost of his fine dining restaurant, Fleur de Lys, closed, chef Keller transformed his space at Mandalay Bay into a small-plates concept with inspired worldly dishes, such as the tuna tacos. Each of three hard-shell tacos has a bed of lettuce and cabbage topped with a fresh slice of tuna sashimi and finished with a dollop of avocado cream and a slice of Serrano pepper for a kick. $13 for three, in Mandalay Bay, 632-9400.

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Tricky and Sweet


Tricky and Sweet

By Max Jacobson

It’s not what you or I like,” said my friend Andrew Cherng, shortly after he opened his 1,000th Panda Express. “It’s what the customers like.” If that isn’t a corollary for the restaurant business, it should be. And so with that in mind, I visited the Grand Guignol of sucrose, the Sugar Factory, the Strip’s newest and gaudiest palace of sweets. I’m not a fan of the Cheesecake Factory, for the record, or any place else that serves desserts big enough to choke a thoroughbred. Everyone I spoke to was having a good time, though, so I calmed my inner curmudgeon and joined the fray.