Under-the-radar Roe, savoring soft-shell season and news from chef-preneurs

One of our best chefs currently flying under the radar is Sean Roe at Emeril Lagasse’s Table 10 at the Palazzo. Lagasse handpicked Roe to be chef here after Jean-Paul Labadie’s departure, and he’s justified all the faith his boss had in him. No place on the Strip is more underexposed.

I first met this Albany, N.Y., native at Hank’s, where he opened as executive chef. That was followed by a long stint at Delmonico. His creamed corn and amazing steaks have always impressed me, and he has changed the menu around quite a bit at his new posting.

A sumptuous recent dinner here began with perfectly battered smelts from the Great Lakes, candied bacon from New Hampshire’s North Country Smokehouse and a classic frisée salad with a poached Glaum Farm egg. As with all young, hip chefs, product is king, and a source of pride in the kitchen.

Would that Roe would bring back my favorite dish here, rotisserie lamb. But he says Americans just don’t order lamb that way. What a pity. Luckily, there are entrées such as Hawaiian-style snapper, lobster spaghetti and a Creekstone Farms aged rib-eye for consolation. Everyone gets Emeril’s famous, three-tiered banana cream pie for dessert. Call 414-1000 for a reservation.

When I mentioned the excellent pizza at Aurelio’s, a small chain that started in Homewood, Ill., a few weeks back, I neglected to mention the branch at 445 W. Craig Road (399-3131). I have friends who fly in this pizza from Chicago, so North Las Vegas ain’t that far.

Being a denizen of Green Valley, I often visit King’s Fish House at the District (835-8900) for sand dabs, a fish almost impossible to find elsewhere around here. Now, King’s is going Atlantic on us. Between now and September, the restaurant is doing riffs on soft-shell crab, delicious creatures that molt their hard shells in the hot months so that we can eat them whole. There will be Maryland soft-shell crab sandwiches, a piccata-style preparation, soft-shell tempura and Southern-fried soft shell served with rémoulade, cole slaw and fries.

In unrelated news, chef and cookbook author Scott Linquist has left his post as corporate chef for Dos Caminos, reportedly to open a small restaurant of his own in New York. It remains to be seen if a change in the kitchens here will take place.

Finally, Julie Anne Hession, the resident entrepreneur behind Julie Anne’s All-Natural Granola (JulieAnnes.com), has just launched her fifth delicious flavor, Decadent Raspberry Truffle, to go with the others: Tropical Bliss, Berry Yummy PB & J, Maple Blueberry and Sweet Citrus. The granolas are available at Whole Foods Markets.

Hungry, yet?

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Ladies, wanna know if he really loves you? Watch closely the look on his face as the server drops off this gorgeous plate of spicy, delicious and pungent things with flavors that were meant to last. The dish delivers: Slices of maguro tuna are layered and topped with a zingy chili-ginger sauce. Next comes the crispy shallots, raw onion and a garnish of micro-greens for color. Lastly, a little negi oil is drizzled on top. Polish it all off and, before popping so much as a Tic Tac, whisper, “Come here, baby. Give me a little kiss.” His move.

DTLV

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