California Chicken Club at Divine Café

Simple food done well can be revelatory. Pretzel bread is often so good it makes you want to scream, “Oh my God, is the President walking outside without pants?” so as to distract nearby diners and swipe their share from their table. Put them together and you get the Divine Café’s California Chicken Club, a thin chicken breast tucked snugly into a pretzel bread bun and topped with bacon so thick, crisp and fresh that little beads of grease still sizzle in its folds as it’s being served. $7.25, 6380 S. Valley View Blvd., 253-1400.