Las Vegas has never been a great breakfast town. People party hard. People sleep late. So far, quality breakfast options have been limited here. There are local’s places such as The Original Pancake House or The Maple Tree on Spring Mtn Rd. There is also Bouchon on the Strip, Thomas Keller’s brasserie at the Venetian. I love DuPar’s, Downtown.
But that’s pretty much it, so I was heartened when I learned that Michel Richard, the D.C. celebrity chef, had thrown his hat into the ring with the opening of Central, what he calls a bistro, and what one wag I know insists is a fancy diner. The place is open 24/7, but before 11 am, the breakfast menu is the only one option.
True, this place is designed for speed, not comfort. There are handsome but functional wooden chairs and wooden tables with laminate tops. There is a parquet floor, occasionally interrupted by swaths of designer linoleum. The high ceiling and designer elements such as stacks of giant white plates piled onto side stations, or hung with string from overhead, is striking. That same ceiling is covered in reflective silver leaf, giving the room a casual, contempo look.
For more of Max Jacobson’s look at Central, follow him at UnicaWorld.com.