Carnevino

It’s a cliché to say that the Strip has more great steak houses than anywhere else on earth per square mile, but it’s true. So it’s quite a distinction to be called the best in this town. But while the A300 beef from Australia at Jean-Georges may have been the top cut we tasted this year, Mario Batali’s place, with Zach Allen at the helm, wins for overall excellence.

The beef program, created by legendary New York butcher Adam Perry Lang, features BBL beef, and it’s beyond prime—marbled exquisitely, raised without hormones and antibiotic-free. Steaks here are given the royal treatment, a gentle rub with sea salt, black pepper and fresh rosemary. No need for steak sauce—none is offered anyway.

An Allen secret lies in the aging room, where there are often steaks that have been precisely preparing for 90, 120 and even 180 days. The result is beef heaven, with sky-high pricing to match. That classic Florentine beefsteak for two will run you $160.

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Kobe Meatballs in Lettuce Cups, Sushi Roku

Dishing With Grace

Kobe Meatballs in Lettuce Cups, Sushi Roku

A recent addition to the menu, this dish offers perfect spheres of rich, ground Kobe beef on skewers with caramelized onions and mustard soy truffle sauce, and are meant to be eaten with the accompanying butter lettuce leaves. The combination of intense beefiness with the crunch from the lettuce, sweetness of the onions and umami of the dipping sauce is a study in well-balanced flavors. $18, Sushi Roku, in the Forum Shops at Caesars, 733-7373.

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