Jaleo

Once, chef José Andrés insisted he would never open a restaurant here. Suddenly, he has three: China Poblano, E Bar and this one, his flagship. Jaleo, which means “revelry” in Spanish, is as versatile a restaurant as there is in this city.

It’s possible to eat quickly, snacking on small plates (tapas), but you can also spend hours here nibbling on course after course, crowned by a smoky paella from the olive-wood fire pit in the rear of the dining room.

The décor is colorful, featuring multicolored banquettes that Andrés chose himself, avant-garde murals designed by Spanish artists and, just outside in the common area, foosball tables that double as dining tables.

Most of the dozens of dishes are inspired by Spanish cuisines. The conserved tuna and potato salad is to die for. Another more exotic dish is butifarra casera, the famous Catalan pork sausage done in a stew with mushrooms and pearl onions. Try patatas arrugadas, tiny alabaster-color potatoes paired with a duo of exotic sauces from the Canary Islands, or embutidas, various types of ham and sausage imported from Spain. Pata negra, from black-footed Spanish pigs that subsist on acorns, is the world’s best ham. At almost $40 for a small serving, it had better be.

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Kobe Meatballs in Lettuce Cups, Sushi Roku

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Kobe Meatballs in Lettuce Cups, Sushi Roku

A recent addition to the menu, this dish offers perfect spheres of rich, ground Kobe beef on skewers with caramelized onions and mustard soy truffle sauce, and are meant to be eaten with the accompanying butter lettuce leaves. The combination of intense beefiness with the crunch from the lettuce, sweetness of the onions and umami of the dipping sauce is a study in well-balanced flavors. $18, Sushi Roku, in the Forum Shops at Caesars, 733-7373.

DTLV

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