You can get great seafood at many places in Las Vegas today, from Bartolotta on the Strip to King’s Fish House in the District at Green Valley Ranch. But Milos, the elegant Greek restaurant at the Cosmopolitan, is a game-changer on many levels.

It’s the first truly great Greek on the Strip, the only place you can eat lavraki, a kind of sea bass, done simply with the Greek trinity of lemon, oregano and olive oil. There is also red mullet, simply broiled but exquisite, and octopus so tender you can eat it with a spoon. Even better, this high-priced restaurant has a ridiculously cheap ($20.11) three-course lunch, where you can have a first course of Greek dips, a fish dish as a main, and karithopita (a walnut cake) as the dessert course, among myriad choices. It’s the best deal in town.

The bonus is Costas Spiliadis, the most charming of hosts. He’ll escort you himself to the fish market, where you will choose your dinner from the gaudy display of live and fresh fish on ice.

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The Barrymore opened a few weeks ago at the Royal Resort, and it’s really the closest place to downtown that I’d call “plush modern.” There’s “hip” (The Beat Coffeehouse) and “Old Vegas” (Hugo’s Cellar), but this is a first: an elegant lounge with a white marble-topped bar and two gorgeous deco dining rooms, and featuring smart 21st- century cooking.



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