Pad Kee Mao at Thai House

This unheralded restaurant in the far corner of a shopping mall off Silverado Ranch Boulevard would have a national fan base if it were near the Strip.

Pad kee mao is a huge pile of rice noodles sautéed with your choice of meats—chicken, beef, pork or shrimp—plus egg, scallion, Thai chili and black soy sauce. The noodles get browned edges, and a wonderful condiment tray is brought as an accompaniment. Pay close attention to those deadly, cylindrical green chilies.

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