Pad Kee Mao at Thai House

This unheralded restaurant in the far corner of a shopping mall off Silverado Ranch Boulevard would have a national fan base if it were near the Strip.

Pad kee mao is a huge pile of rice noodles sautéed with your choice of meats—chicken, beef, pork or shrimp—plus egg, scallion, Thai chili and black soy sauce. The noodles get browned edges, and a wonderful condiment tray is brought as an accompaniment. Pay close attention to those deadly, cylindrical green chilies.

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Wow, time sure flies. Food & Wine magazine’s All-Star Weekend is already upon us this year, Oct. 21-23 at Aria and the Bellagio. Last year, the food at the main event, the All-Star Tasting ($150, 877-318-2472), was incredible, featuring dishes from star chefs such as Shawn McClain of Sage, who prepared cauliflower panna cotta with a tiny Dungeness crab cake and 48-hour beef belly on smoked potato purée. Sven Mede of American Fish served ocean water-poached Ruby Red shrimp.

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