Pad Kee Mao at Thai House

This unheralded restaurant in the far corner of a shopping mall off Silverado Ranch Boulevard would have a national fan base if it were near the Strip.

Pad kee mao is a huge pile of rice noodles sautéed with your choice of meats—chicken, beef, pork or shrimp—plus egg, scallion, Thai chili and black soy sauce. The noodles get browned edges, and a wonderful condiment tray is brought as an accompaniment. Pay close attention to those deadly, cylindrical green chilies.

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Kobe Meatballs in Lettuce Cups, Sushi Roku

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Kobe Meatballs in Lettuce Cups, Sushi Roku

A recent addition to the menu, this dish offers perfect spheres of rich, ground Kobe beef on skewers with caramelized onions and mustard soy truffle sauce, and are meant to be eaten with the accompanying butter lettuce leaves. The combination of intense beefiness with the crunch from the lettuce, sweetness of the onions and umami of the dipping sauce is a study in well-balanced flavors. $18, Sushi Roku, in the Forum Shops at Caesars, 733-7373.

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