What’s with all the hipsters trying to gentrify downtown?

Wow, you must be bursting at the temples now that Zappos is coming. And while I’m dismayed that you actually used the term “hipster” in 2011, I will entertain your passive-aggressive query.

Vocal members of the anti-gentrification movement (the nascent anti-hipster hipsters, if you will) rail against downtown redevelopment in general, and Fremont East in particular, by posturing that the Emergency Arts building was once a free medical clinic for indigent residents—a clinic chased out for coffee and art and a turntable spinning Gerry Rafferty. The implication? Fremont Street is a place for the underprivileged, and any efforts to improve the area displace the struggling with middle-class Trustafarian conceits.

Never mind that Emergency Arts was never a free medical clinic (it was a Fremont Medical Center) and that the building started its life as a J.C. Penney department store.

Fremont Street and its offshoots were once the bustling core of commerce in Las Vegas. Woolworth’s, Cornet and local fave Ronzone’s had locations there. Dozens of smaller outlets (GallenKamp’s and Florsheim shoes, Rex Bell’s Western wear store, Bond’s Jewelers) did, too, as well as cafés and first-run theaters. Downtown commanded this community role until 1968, when Irwin Molasky built the Boulevard Mall adjacent to his swanky (and today resurgent) golf course neighborhood Paradise Palms. Fremont waved bye-bye to stores and shoppers (which migrated to Molasky’s luxurious suburban development), and the downturn started. By the time the Meadows Mall opened in 1978, it was goodbye Penney’s, hello porno theaters.

So, after decades of decline that soured the soul of Las Vegas into a scary urban caricature, I wouldn’t classify the repurposing of vacant buildings as bad gentrification. Rather, Fremont East’s rebound counts as the start of the re-establishment of a productive and positive urban environment. Yes, downtown needs a full-size grocer, more retail to complement the new bars and restaurants, and a community-minded approach to deal with the inevitable culture clash. But those will come, as will a diverse population of productive residents. Besides, who needs porno theaters when we have the Internet?

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Heavyweight Hospitality

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Caesars Palace used to be the champ. Builder Jay Sarno hyped its opening festivities, which kicked off on Aug. 5, 1966, and lasted for three days, as “an orgy of excitement.” The celebration was pure Swingin’ Sixties: bottomless champagne flutes, two tons of filet mignon, cocktail waitresses in so-short-they’re-barely-legal toga dresses, and Andy Williams crooning in the Circus Maximus theater. Before the last chorus of “Moon River” ended, the place was the top casino in the world.

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