Best Dining with a Scene Off the Strip

The Barrymore

The trend of restoring our old hotels into new grandeur has worked to the Royal House’s advantage, especially in its tony eatery, the Barrymore. This restaurant and its bar have been cool enough to create a resurgence, with local nightlife aficionados and tourists making a night (or day, if it’s brunch) of it. The intimate dining room marks a return to retro Las Vegas, complete with friendly, old-school service but with a modern take on the classic Vegas menu. Film reels adorn the ceiling while mirrored walls open up the chocolate, cream and blue space. Dishes such as deviled eggs, vitello tonnato and steak are done well and hit the spot, but chef Anthony Meidenbauer also does a good job with contemporary items such as roasted pork belly, octopus salad and lobster eggs Benedict. The Barrymore’s specialty drinks—such as the Barrymore 75 and the Virginia Hill—are not to be missed, but for an extra dose of nostalgia, opt for drinks from the champagne cocktail and Bloody Mary sections.

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The Downtown Cocktail Room’s doors are impossibly un-door-ish. You walk up from the intersection of Fremont Street and Las Vegas Boulevard, happy to join the buzzing downtown camaraderie—the urban revolution taking hold of Las Vegas—and you’re faced with walls of one-way glass and no apparent door handle. For the uninitiated, it makes for an awkward moment. Had this happened to me, and I’m not confirming that it did, the larger metaphor wouldn’t have been lost: Maybe everyone doesn’t fit in here.

DTLV

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