The Miami Milos, EAT anticipation and a trip to the Top of the World

Last week in Miami I visited the vast, new Estiatorio Milos, sister restaurant to the one here, and ones in Montreal, New York City and Athens, Greece. To say it is incredible is an understatement.

Owner Costas Spiliadis brings in box after box of fresh seafood from the Mediterranean daily, and oddly, even though one tends to associate South Beach with seafood, the only other place that does anything remotely similar down there is another restaurant with a Las Vegas outpost, Joe’s Stone Crab.

I ate scorpion fish, melanouri (a small sea bream), sweet shrimp, and even smoked salmon and sable fish that the restaurant gets from Russ & Daughters in New York’s Lower East Side, accompanied by bagels from St. Viateur in Montreal.

Want to look better for the summer? Why Calories Count, by food scientists Marion Nestle and Malden Nesheim, is timely and important, a book that takes readers through the metabolic process and provides a strict definition for the calorie, as well as a blueprint for healthful and sustainable eating habits.

To fully comprehend how we eat, it’s best to understand these processes, and the book (University of California Press, $30) helps us to decode and interpret ingredient labels while offering insight about nutritional science, while viewing calories in a wider, oft-politicized arena.

Father’s Day is upon us, and See’s Candies offers a special four-ounce box ($6.65) that uses no preservatives, is filled with treats such as milk and dark chocolates, and foil-wrapped orbs.

Meanwhile, everyone I know seems to be jazzed about the prospective opening of EAT, chef Natalie Young’s new breakfast and lunch spot, slated for late summer at Seventh Street and Carson Avenue downtown.

Perhaps you remember Young when she did a turn as executive chef at P.J. Clarke’s at the Forum Shops at Caesars. She’s an old pro at comfort food, such as chicken and waffles or fried green tomatoes, and my mouth is watering at the prospect. Biscuits and prime-rib hash, anyone?

Finally, Lord knows I dislike the idea of going through a metal detector to dine in a restaurant, but for the expert cooking of Claude Gaty, chef at the Stratosphere’s Top of the World, I’ll make an exception.

Parisian Gaty is an autodidact, with places such as Hawaii, Thailand and Europe on his résumé. He cooked a masterful pork belly with chimichurri and Sriracha sauce, baby frisee salad with roasted beets, a beguilingly natural-tasting sea bass with fleur de sel, and the pièce de résistance, ultra-tender duck breast on green papaya salad.

I’m still Jonesin’ for his tater tots with foie gras, but as he lamented, “They didn’t sell.” Maybe someone else can ask him to bring them back.

Hungry, yet?

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Another tasty Epicurean Affair, new N9NE dishes, and a good Slice  of Vegas

Diner's Notebook

Another tasty Epicurean Affair, new N9NE dishes, and a good Slice of Vegas

By Max Jacobson

Dare I say it? The Epicurean Affair at the Palazzo’s Azure Luxury Pool is my favorite of local food events. This year’s version, featuring about 75 venues and 1,800 paying guests, was a huge success by my lights. First of all, there weren’t too many sliders, and ones that I tried were superb: a terrific short-rib slider on a house-baked sesame bun by Bouchon, and a Wagyu beef slider by STK from the Cosmopolitan.