Dessert was probably not what China Poblano executive chef Shirley Chung had in mind when she treated some of her traditional steamed pork buns to a hot oil bath. But served with house-made sweetened condensed milk sauce, they became Golden Pigs, a sweet and savory treat destined for Dessertville. Beneath the thin, crispy, golden-fried skin the dough is still soft, hiding a cache of diced pork belly, slow-cooked for 10 hours then smothered in red master sauce. All that’s left to do is dip ’em. $15, in the Cosmopolitan, 698-7900.