Buttermilk Fried Chicken at Bouchon

We asked renowned chef Thomas Keller why he doesn’t put his chicken permanently on the menu at Bouchon. “It’s not really a bistro dish,” he replied. But the demand is high, so he serves it here as a special from time to time. (At his Yountville, Calif., restaurant, Ad Hoc, it’s the Monday-night special, and you can’t get a table.) Why? This bird is done right—golden and crunchy. It’s a perfect 10.