“It’s a steak house. What do I need a chef for?” Wolfgang Puck once remarked, while planning the original Cut in Beverly Hills. But the fact is, Cut has one, and his name is Matthew Hurley. And he’s as adept a chef as anyone in the city—especially since his colleague, Zach Allen at Carnevino across the casino floor, decamped for Hong Kong. The brilliance of the Cut concept, though, is that the steak house isn’t really a steak house. Puck’s team does offer steaks from a variety of high-end producers, such as Double R Ranch in Loomis, Wash., and they’re all hardwood-grilled and finished at 1,200 degrees. But it’s the head-turning lobster, side dishes such as knishes, warm veal tongue with beans and artichokes, and the incredible selection of artisan cheeses that make Cut memorable. What’s more, the desserts here, created by corporate director of pastry Kenny Magana, rival those of any steak house in town.