When Steve Wynn’s inevitable break with investor Kazuo Okada became official, Okada restaurant was redesigned and reimagined, eventually emerging better than ever with a new name, Mizumi. In large part, credit for that success goes to young Hawaii native Devin Hashimoto, who has successfully altered the menu with dishes such as his ishiyaki tartare bibimbap, a Korean-inspired rice bowl (the chef’s wife, Donna, is Korean-American), spicy king crab and taro tacos with a “shell” composed of the starchy root, and starters such as yellowtail sashimi and jalapeño gelée. Hashimoto wasn’t content merely to stand on the sushi and teppan formula from the old restaurant, so he re-did about 40 percent of the entire menu, adding fusion dishes and his own creations. This took both courage and vision from the chef, who has quite a pedigree. He was, for six years, sous-chef at Alex, so he’s versed in sophisticated European cooking as well as the Asian food he grew up with. He does, for example, meltingly tender short ribs (the one dish we miss most from Alex) and several other items with Euro touches, such as foie gras with his uni, sea urchin. Another specialty here is robatayaki (the popular genre consisting of bite-size, charcoal-grilled items such as the yaki rice ball), delicious chicken or beef skewers, and shishito pepper with ponzu sauce. This chef does it better than anyone in the city, save, perhaps, Mitsuo Endo at Raku. All hail this new star!
Best of the City 2016
Our seventh annual celebration of all things Las Vegas, from the best place to fix your speeding ticket to the best Bloody Mary.