If Robuchon is a classic design, then this restaurant—a mezzanine-level cathedral room by Jean-Michel Wilmotte, who also did parts of the Louvre—is resolutely French. If you follow protocol, you might begin your evening in the Champagne lounge, punctuated by an arresting sculptured bear composed of white matchsticks. The cooking is always magnificent. Try oysters en gelée, superb American beef, and the chef’s signature artichoke soup with Parmesan and black truffles. And recently Savoy added a new wrinkle: For a hefty sum ($348), you can order a 14-course dinner called the Innovation-Inspiration menu, which includes concassé of oyster with lemon gratiné, marinated and grilled hamachi with sherry vinegar and radish gelée, and a wonderful saffron and marjoram-crusted wagyu beef. Savoy’s chef—movie-star handsome Mathieu Chartron—is a top craftsman, and his dishes are done with confidence and savoir-faire. Our favorite time to dine here is autumn, when you can get fresh game such as potted grouse, pheasant and sometimes wild hare, the gamiest dish in the city. One American touch here are the tiny Kobe beef sliders that are sometimes part of the amuse-bouche parade. Savoy, when he is in town, sometimes goes to In-N-Out. Don’t tell nobody.