We’re So Over …

• Inappropriate bacon use.
• The term “throw-down.”
• Adult milkshakes.
• Sake flights.
• Dumbing down.
• Lobster mac and cheese.
• Sliders.

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“It’s a steak house. What do I need a chef for?” Wolfgang Puck once remarked, while planning the original Cut in Beverly Hills. But the fact is, Cut has one, and his name is Matthew Hurley. And he’s as adept a chef as anyone in the city—especially since his colleague, Zach Allen at Carnevino across the casino floor, decamped for Hong Kong. The brilliance of the Cut concept, though, is that the steak house isn’t really a steak house.