Diner's Notebook

Fat Choy Ahoy, Bellagio Ups its Epicurean Series Game, and Ramsay Makes Nice

Sheridan Su—a French-trained, Chinese-American chef who ran a terrific food truck, Great Bao—has surfaced in a new venture, Fat Choy in the Eureka Casino (595 E. Sahara Ave., 794-3464). And it’s here he’s being given a chance to showcase his unique gifts. A sign over the door tells us we are in for Asian-American fare. And how!

A few Eureka denizens, according to Su’s wife, Jenny, may have to acquire a taste for Su’s delicacies, such as shrimp toast and roast duck rice, but they’re already enjoying a fusion menu that includes short-rib grilled cheese, Peking duck buns and burgers. As for me, I’m already dreaming about more shrimp toast, and I love his roast duck rice.

Su does authentic, accomplished cooking in his modest space. Pork-sauce noodle is really the Northern Chinese dish jia jiang min, a tangle of chewy noodles with diced pork and fermented soy beans, laced with green onion. Think Chinese Bolognese.

And I applaud his take on the Cantonese classic wonton soup—delicious broth with fat, meaty wontons made in Su’s kitchen. For breakfast, there is an Asian take on steak and eggs with thinly sliced, Korean-style kalbi short ribs, standing in for the usual top sirloin.

I was recently privileged to attend two crackerjack food events. The first was a dinner in the Bellagio Epicurean Series featuring chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten (of Prime and Jean-Georges Steakhouse) and Francis Ford Coppola of Inglenook Winery in the Napa Valley. You may know him as a film director. Perchance you’ve heard of The Godfather.

The dinner was amazing. Vongerichten demonstrated his technique in the hotel’s Tuscany Kitchen, where 61 lucky souls dined on tuna tartare, spice-crusted snapper and a terrific crispy wagyu short rib. Coppola’s wines are superb, especially the amazing ’09 Rubicon, which at over $200 a bottle, should be. Winemaker Phillippe Bascaules was also on hand.

In February, Diaoyutai State Guest House from China will be in the Tuscany Kitchen to prepare delicacies few Westerners ever get the chance to taste. Contact Epicurean Epicenter at Bellagio.com for details.

Gordon Ramsay staged a British Invasion on January 27, where the chef demonstrated how to prepare his Brittania Burger at his newest venue, Gordon Ramsay BurGR in Planet Hollywood, topped with English sharp cheddar, arugula and mango chutney. Then, a group of journos boarded a double-decker bus—the kind you’ll find in London—to be ferried over to Gordon Ramsay Pub & Grill at Caesars Palace for a proper Sunday roast, held weekly at 11 a.m.

The menu included roast prime rib eye, fingerling potatoes, honey-roasted parsnips, thyme-roasted carrots, minted English peas and two sauces, horseradish cream and red-wine marrow and was excellent. And even the irascible Ramsay seemed to be in good spirits, in spite of his frenetic, globetrotting schedule.

Hungry, yet?

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