Dishing: Parmesan Tater Tots at P.J. Clarke’s

Tater tots, the deep-fried potato snack that remind us of childhood, have always been especially receptive to being dressed up. The specimens from P.J. Clarke’s are massive (for tots), creamy on the inside and crisp on the outside, enhanced by the dusting of grated Parmesan cheese. House-made tomato jam is a fancy way to say gussied-up ketchup, but it’s richer and more intense—an ideal accompaniment to these fun bites.

$9, in the Forum Shops at Caesars, 434-7900, PJClarkes.com.

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