I love octopus. But let me be more specific: I love octopus when it has a heavy char on the outside, is tender on the inside and is dressed lightly, perhaps, with just high-quality olive oil, a little lemon juice and some spices that lean in the direction of the cuisine. The freshest I’ve ever had was two summers ago in Marsala, Sicily, a specimen that perhaps moments ago had been cruising sunken ships off the Sicilian shores before becoming my post-wine-tasting lunch. But my first real experience with the octopus was when Lavo opened in the Palazzo, and it was the one that converted me from octo-doubter to octo-diner. Since then, I’ve been on a mission, devising my own Las Vegas octopi chart, of sorts. And I’m not nearly finished. In the mean time, here’s an octopus’ dozen—nine great ways you can try tentacles right now.