Diner's Notebook

Prime Real Estate, the City’s Best German, and Town Square’s Two New Tenants

How does a restaurant with prime steaks, solicitous service, old Western décor, and a price point well below those in more publicized Strip venues sound? Well, that’s just what to expect at Silverado at the South Point (796-7111), where chef Jon Romine is strutting his stuff.

South Point is mainly a locals casino, but is restaurant-rich, with Michael’s, a Steak & Shake, Don Vito’s Italian Restaurant and a pan-Asian concept opening March 20, not to mention the popular Prime Rib Loft.

Everything I ate at Silverado was first rate: Gulf oysters on the shell, a rich Caesar salad, the bone-in rib eye (which I had blackened) and a delicious creamed corn. The room, what’s more, is quiet enough for a conversation, decorated with colorful cowboy-theme murals that made me think I was somewhere in rural Arizona.

Meanwhile, the recent blustery weather gave me a craving for something hearty, so I stopped by the city’s best German restaurant, Café Berlin (450 W. Sunset Rd., 875-4605.) This place serves giant pretzels imported from Germany and baked to order and delicious when eaten piping-hot with the piquant house mustard.

The chef also makes brats and various other German sausages in-house, which you can have prepared as entrées, or to-go in shrink-wrapped packages. But I was in the mood for rouladen, beef rolled around bacon and sour pickle, served in gravy with the softball-size dumplings called knodel and sweet-tart red cabbage. I wish I had left room for one of the café’s excellent pieces of strudel—apple or poppy. Maybe next time!

In other news around town, spring has been a busy time at Town Square, where two popular restaurants are opening. One is the sandwich chain, Capriotti’s, which is, to my mind, the best sub shop in town. (I especially like the grilled Italian.) It’s located in the oft-occupied space just across the bridge from the AMC 18 Theaters (formerly known as Rave Cinemas.)

The other restaurant is the freestanding Bonefish Grill, located at the north end of the complex, hard by Texas de Brazil. The specialty here is hand-cut, wood-grilled fish of international provenance, but I’m rather partial to their take on Key lime pie.

Finally, Texas Station has added a barbecue station to its low-priced Feast Buffet, a steal at $5 for lunch, $8 for dinner. Hand-carved meats include pork, turkey, chicken, sausage and smoked ribs in addition to all the other dishes. Please don’t tell my cardiologist I’m heading out there to binge.

Hungry, yet?

Follow Max Jacobson’s latest epicurean observations, reviews and tips at VegasSeven.com/Blogs.

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