Dishing: Country-Style P?t?, Comme ?a

Comme ?a?s charcuterie program is off the charts, producing not just your typical saucisson and rillettes, but also p?t?, here served wrapped in thin strips of bacon. Although country-style usually means the spread is coarser ground forcemeat, typical of what is found in a French grandmother?s house, Comme ?a?s version is smoother and lighter, made with bits of rabbit, veal, pork and chicken livers for that extra touch of offal-y good flavor. Charcuterie board $22, in the Cosmopolitan, 698-7910,

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