The best thing on the bone arrives virtually falling off of it. The Ossobuco d’Agnello at Allegro begins as a relatively tough cut of meat. But stern connective tissue turns to velvet when braised for 3-4 hours. Chef Enzo Febbraro has a way with bone-in lamb shank—he treats it tenderly as he wants it to taste, and serves it with a savory vegetable stew, tucked into a bed of house-made pappardelle as firm as the meat is soft. The dark red-brown sauce is perfect for sopping up with bread baked in-house, and is never so pleasant as when accompanied by a glass of the 2008 Daou Celestus syrah and cabernet blend from Paso Robles ($21).
$49, in Wynn, 770-2040.