Best Thing on the Bone

Ossobuco d’Agnello at Allegro


The best thing on the bone arrives virtually falling off of it. The Ossobuco d’Agnello at Allegro begins as a relatively tough cut of meat. But stern connective tissue turns to velvet when braised for 3-4 hours. Chef Enzo Febbraro has a way with bone-in lamb shank—he treats it tenderly as he wants it to taste, and serves it with a savory vegetable stew, tucked into a bed of house-made pappardelle as firm as the meat is soft. The dark red-brown sauce is perfect for sopping up with bread baked in-house, and is never so pleasant as when accompanied by a glass of the 2008 Daou Celestus syrah and cabernet blend from Paso Robles ($21).

$49, in Wynn, 770-2040.

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Jason Strauss


Jason Strauss

The tastemaker and nightlife impresario is a partner of Tao Group, a leading restaurant and nightlife company that develops, owns and operates numerous high-profile food and beverage facilities nationwide, including Tao, Lavo and Marquee. Along with his partners, Strauss was named Hospitality Operator of the Year by Nightclub & Bar in 2006, and their work with Marquee has been profiled as a case study by Harvard Business School.