Call us crazy, but we feel like the Best Chef on the Strip should actually spend the majority of his time on the Strip, physically in his restaurant. Not to punish celebrity chefs for their success, but while those cats are away, an executive chef is working all but anonymously in their name. Which is what makes a visit to Allegro such a welcome change. Nine out of 10 times, the sturdy frame of chef Enzo Febbraro will be present at the expediting station, hands waving wildly, his expressive face flipping from concentration to elation to humor—this guy is no absentee landlord. Can he cook? Astoundingly well—try the osso buco, the eggplant parmigiano or just wait till the fall menu debuts! Febbraro comes to Vegas by way of D.C., Paris, Munich, Madrid and Milan. But the well-pedigreed chef isn’t afraid to sully his coat by jumping on the line. He also habitually darts into the dining room to greet regulars, visit with tables and bid diners good night. The fact is that Febbraro comes from a huge Italian family, the kind of old-world-Napoli huge that required an entire apartment building to house all the aunts, uncles, cousins and nonni. Little Enzo was a rare male among many women who learned to cook from mother and grandmother. Today he regrets the distance between relations, so maybe that’s why he treats his guests like actual family. In the Wynn, 770-2040.