I’ve been trying to find good Mexican cuisine in this town for 10 years. Where do you go?
Ah, the eternal question. In fact, things are not as bleak as one might think, even if virtually all of our upscale Mexican restaurants—Dos Caminos, Isla at the TI, and Diego (currently being re-imagined)—have gone with the wind. If you are willing to travel to North Las Vegas, Los Molcajetes (1553 N. Eastern Ave, 633-7595) serves interesting dishes in bubbling iron cauldrons, and the very good Leticia’s Mexican Cocina (7585 Norman Rockwell Ln., 445-7722) is an all-around excellent spot, serving food that tastes exactly like what you’d find in the lovely owner’s native Mexico City. I sometimes stop by a place called Los Antojos Mexicanos (2520 S Eastern Ave., 457-3505), for great small plates (antojo is Spanish for whim, or craving), such as gorditas (fat, corn tortillas stuffed with chicharrón) and the best Mexican chicken soup in the city. And Lindo Michoacán (multiple locations) occasionally does braised goat meat, if you’re in that kind of mood. Lastly, you could sniff out a food truck, many of which are found on construction sites. But if they are serving something called pupusas—pocket-shaped corn cakes with savory fillings—chances are the cooks are Salvadoran.