Dishing With Grace

A Soufflé From the Easter Bunny, A Sandwich From A Pizzeria

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The Cadbury egg soufflé at Andre’s

In the holiday candy game, Easter candy rules: Starburst jellybeans (red only, please), marshmallow Peeps (two days-stale, please) and hollow milk chocolate bunnies (don’t judge me when I give the poor thing a craniotomy). But the quintessential Easter confection is the Cadbury Crème Egg, a thick chocolate shell filled with sweet white-and-yellow goo. And that very egg is going into the seasonal soufflé at Andre’s (in Monte Carlo, 798-7151, AndreLV.com). The French restaurant actually has a soufflé du jour calendar, says pastry chef Tammy Alana. “We try to get playful with the holiday picks. I feel the Cadbury egg is such a classic—I remember those sweet commercials. Why not try it?”

The chocolate soufflé is prepared as usual, then the Cadbury egg is dropped in the middle as it bakes. When dessert is presented at the table, the chocolate shell is at the right temperature to crack easily, while the egg contents—the faux albumen and yolk made from fondant—ooze into the soufflé.

Shifting from soufflés to sandwiches, slowly but surely I’ve been eating my way through the Linq, and stopped in for a slice (more like four slices) at Flour and Barley (430-4430, FlourAndBarley.com). While the brick-oven pizzas of the Diavola and Carbonara variety were good, the one dish I couldn’t stop eating was the Salsicce sandwich. I only ordered it because I didn’t get a pizza with any Italian sausage, and I’m a sucker for good salsicce. The sweet, well-spiced link is split in half and grilled, then dressed with tomato sauce, peppers and onions, broccoli rabe and mozzarella. The beauty of this sandwich lies in its construction: the integrity of the bun, made by local Bon Breads, holds up under the weight and consistency of the filling.

In other new restaurant news, Michael Mina’s seafood and grill-centric American Fish (in Aria, 590-8610) will close in July to make way for a more French identity: Bardot Brasserie, set to open this winter. I’m a fan of the chef-driven interpretations of French cuisine that can be found at Mina’s RN74s in San Francisco and Seattle from chefs Adam Sobel and David Varley, respectively, and I wish that was the route Mina was taking here. But he knows his Las Vegas clientele, and a classic bistro concept will do well, especially once the roving shellfish cart takes a lap around the dining room. In addition to mobile crustaceans, Bardot Brasserie’s menu will feature French favorites such as roasted bone marrow with bacon marmalade, foie gras en croute and steak frites. Le burger on the menu speaks Français as well—the dry-aged steak burger is topped with nutty Comté cheese, caramelized onions and Bordelaise.

Grace Bascos eats, sleeps, raves and repeats. Read more from Grace at VegasSeven.com/DishingWithGrace, as well as on her blog, FoodPlusTechno.com.

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