Liquid Luxury … By the Yard???


(Trigger warning: This piece describes the irreverent consumption of ultra-luxury Cognac in a frozen, slushy drink by the yard.)
The last taboo has been tested. Grab-and-go bar Evening Call has committed an act of spirit abuse so egregious it’s laughable. Late last year, the chain’s Mandalay Bay location started adding shots of Rémy Martin’s Louis XIII Cognac to its frozen, slushy yard drinks for a cool $100—probably not what the maître de chai of Rémy Martin has in mind for her prestigious juice. Now, before you rend your garments, realize this blasphemy is by design. The offer was actually suggested by a wily liquor rep who was inspired by a story about Pappy Van Winkle Jell-O shots. Like Pappy, Louis XIII enjoys a reverential mystique, which Evening Call owner Tommy Lynn thinks has gotten out of hand. “Most places are charging over $350 per ounce, which is really silly when you think about it,” he says. And anyway, most spirits professionals—deferring to their fiscal bottom line—will ultimately tell you that the “right” way to enjoy any beverage is the way you like it. So do it: Put ice cubes in your fine wine; drink a Dogfish Head 90-Minute IPA with your crème brûlée (it’s delicious!); pair Krug Champagne with a Double-Double from In-N-Out Burger like the chefs do. Lynn suggests adding a shot of Louis XIII to his Vegas Crush (fruit punch and vodka) or Fireball apple cider. Pinkies up, now, just to spite.


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