Downtown’s Deadly Sin, A Family Affair and Wine Dinners for All

Strip House exterior

Strip House exterior

Downtown has become ground zero for lots of places that want to be a neighborhood restaurant—and has me seriously thinking that I need to change my neighborhood. The latest to add to the mix is Glutton (616 E. Carson Ave., 702-366-0623, from chef Bradley Manchester. Across from Downtown Container Park, Glutton puts its wood-fired oven through its paces, using it for many of its dishes, from the roasted sea bream with fennel seed, concord grapes and caracara oranges to flatbreads topped with goat and robiola cheeses, shishito peppers and pesto. There’s also more adventurous fare such as lamb neck sugo with smoked pappardelle, Buffalo-style sweetbreads with pickled celery and whipped bleu cheese and a charcuterie plate with chicken liver mousse, house-made head cheese and bresaola.

How would you like a little legacy with your meal? Family dinner takes on a whole new meaning on April 29 at Made L.V. (in Tivoli Village, 702-722-2000) when Buddy V’s chef Bryan Forgione and his father, guest chef Larry Forgione, take over for “It’s A Family Thing” ($39) with dishes from their own traditions for a spring-forward menu. You’ll start the evening with passed hors d’oeuvres of house-cured duck prosciutto and peanut-ale barbecue shrimp. Grandma Stella’s farm salad has the best and brightest of the season: asparagus, English peas, spring fava beans, pickled beets and lemon-parsley dressing. Black Angus loin is smoked and served with roasted potatoes, fiddlehead ferns and ramps. They’ll tie it all up with the Jim Beard strawberry-rhubarb shortcake, a recipe that was bestowed on Larry from Beard himself and appeared on Forgione’s menu in New York at An American Place.

There’s no shortage of restaurants that want to serve you great wines paired with their cuisine, it’s just a matter of wading through to find the really good ones. MRKT Sea & Land (in Aliante, 702-692-7265) teams up with Justin Vineyards and Landmark Vineyards for a seven-course menu (April 22, $100) that lists interesting dishes such as caviar in a Yukon Gold potato nest, coconut ghee-seared scallops with cauliflower hummus and braised short rib in a smoked cheddar pommes puree. The good-for-you veg come straight from the property’s own vertical herb and vegetable garden. If you want to celebrate Cinco de Mayo with no tequila, head to Strip House (in Planet Hollywood, 702-737-5200) for a five-course menu paired with Twomey and Silver Oak wines ($150). Corporate chef Michael Vignola features a great spread, including sweet pea soup, a lobster roll, Mangalitsa pork collar and 40-day dry-aged rib eye.


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