Beef wellington by Krystal Ramirez

Edge Steakhouse Cuts a Fine Figure in the Westgate

Steakhouses are a dime a dozen in this town—one has to really offer something original to grab our attention. Still, I’m not always appreciative enough of those that are “just” very good at what they do, never reinventing the wheel, but still offering big quality and small touches that make them very good selections in an overcrowded field. And that’s exactly what Edge Steakhouse in the Westgate is.

Despite strong word-of-mouth buzz for most of its first year, many probably haven’t tried it yet, thanks to the resort’s off-Strip location and sometimes unfair dismissal as a refuge for conventioneers and low-budget visitors. If you’ve been putting off your visit for these or any other reasons, it’s time to get over it.

Edge's dining room. Photo: Krystal Ramirez

Edge’s dining room. Photo: Krystal Ramirez

The import from the Westgate property in Park City, Utah, occupies the restaurant row that connects the casino to the Las Vegas Convention Center. Guests enter through a modern lounge with bottles bathed in a cobalt glow at the bar and an ornately framed TV showing whatever game you have money on at the nearby Superbook. The circular dining room is classically elegant with marble columns, hardwood floors and gold show plates. Sophisticated artwork is interspersed with classic photos of the building’s onetime headliner Elvis, partially obscured behind intricate gated frames. The wine collection (which is an award winner in Utah) is on display in the private dining room. And construction is under way on an in-house dry-aging room that will be visible from the restaurant’s exterior.

The man in the kitchen is chef de cuisine Steve Young, who did time in both of Joël Robuchon’s MGM Grand restaurants before a stint at the Cosmopolitan. His menu starters run heavy on staples such as carpaccio, assorted seafood on ice and onion soup au gratin. But you’ll also find some wildcards: Silk Road spicy shrimp is reminiscent of a classic Chinese takeout dish of crispy shrimp in a spicy, creamy sauce, except that the crispy batter coating is far more delicate and each

Sea scallops

Sea scallops

shrimp is cooked to the exacting specifications you’d expect from a chef with Young’s pedigree. Nonetheless, it feels a bit out of place on this menu, and is better suited for a bar snack. Spring pea ravioli are even more refined and a much better fit for the house, offered with English peas, large pieces of prosciutto and truffle butter in a Parmesan broth so light it flirts with being a foam. A crab and avocado salad, noticeably absent of lettuce but packed with flavor, is another wonderful choice. But porcini mushroom soup with shaved truffles, goat cheese and chives was a bust for me, thanks to an overabundance of salt.

Steak selections begin with prime cuts of hormone- and antibiotic-free, pasture-raised and grain-finished cattle. The meat is wet-aged for 21-30 days (at least until that new aging room is finished). Moving up in price, you’ll find Snake River farms wagyu and award-winning A5 Japanese Miyazaki wagyu from the Miyachiku co-op. If none of those words mean anything to you, suffice it to say this is a serious beef program that’s only getting better. Prices on the most basic beef run from $45 for a 7-ounce filet to $65 for a 22-ounce bone-in ribeye; the A5 comes in around $16-$17 an ounce, about half of what you’ll find it for at some of the town’s marquee steakhouses.

A corn trio

A corn trio

In all cases, the beef flavor is great, which is good news since most of the four steak sauces are a bit disappointing. But don’t overlook a beef Wellington that will give Gordon Ramsay’s version at Paris a run for its money. And the sea scallops are not only cooked as close to the platonic ideal as I’ve seen anywhere, their salty chorizo topping is brilliantly balanced with a touch of sweet creamed corn, mild paquillo pepper emulsion and the bite of fresh jalapeño.

From the sides options, don’t miss a trio of corn: beautiful small cobs of chili-lime Mexican street corn, crispy cornbread that appears to have been deep-fried and a basic sweet, creamed version. Truffled mac and cheese is also good, with small tubes of paternoster loaded with cheddar, Gruyère and veal demi-glace. Unfortunately, the lobster risotto is so packed with earthy mushrooms and truffles they overpower the light, sweet seafood.

The excellent service staff includes several familiar faces from other restaurants. One new person on my radar, however, was bartender Mike, who exudes an old-school New York barman charm and tells stories from gigs around the world that make everyone feel like a regular.

As Edge blows out its birthday candles, all I’m wishing for is a continuation of the great work.

Al’s Menu Picks

  • Spring pea ravioli ($16)
  • sea scallops ($39)
  • beef Wellington ($55)
  • and corn trio ($12)

Edge Steakhouse

Westgate, 3000 Paradise Rd., 702-732-5277, Open for dinner 5-10 p.m. or later Tue-Sat; call to confirm hours. Dinner for two, $100-$250.