Some things are worth the wait. Take chef Brian Howard’s Sparrow + Wolf (sparrowandwolflv.com), for instance. The former Comme Ca chef has been on the hunt for the perfect location for his New American restaurant, and he’s found it on Spring Mountain Road. It opened to great fanfare in May, and reviews have been glowing so far. The menu—with 21 items—is compact but varied, a nod to Howard’s travels and Midwestern roots, using cooking techniques dating back to the 18th century but updated for the modern diner.
A not-to-be-missed bite? The beef cheek and bone marrow dumpling, whose inspiration is steeped in nostalgia. “The dumplings are a throwback to growing up eating my grandmother’s pot roast. The combination of our slow-braised beef cheeks mixed with the vegetables from the cooking process and roasted pieces of bone marrow evoke that memory,” Howard says. “We have some fun by wrapping that mixture into dumpling skins, steaming and then glazing them in a reduction of the cooking liquid that has been fortified with a black garlic shoyu vinegar. [The dumplings are then topped] with crunchy fried bits of garlic and an emulsion of garlic chives.”
Do yourself a favor and feed your good wolf at one of the most anticipated restaurants to open this year.