Beef heart tartare? Grilled octopus with squid ink parsnip puree? From a pizza joint? Under new ownership, Radio City Pizzeria has shown us they have so much more to offer, including more gourmet items such as crudo, fresh pastas with pesto that changes weekly and other surprising choices. Sure, you can still order a slice of pepperoni or cheese through the walk-up window, but we recommend heading inside and trying one of the upgraded pies with such items as chicken oysters and broccoli rabe, or guanciale and chorizo, all party-cut into squares so the crust can hold the heft of the toppings. While it does have that neighborhood hipster feel to it—especially now that amaro bar Retroscena has opened in the back alley—Radio City manages to pull it off without feeling overwrought. 508 Fremont St., 702-982-5055.