Since taking over in May, Bocho’s new head chef, Joon-Yong Cho (formerly of Sushi Samba), has been dialing back the oversize portions and upping the wild factor with specials including amberjack and ocean trout. A favorite item, the hamachi kama (yellowtail collar) has not only remained, but is now just $10. Crispy charred skin somehow manages to hold back a thick hunk of meat—juicy, delicately oily and positively screaming for a beer. Bocho offers Asahi, Kirin and Sapporo as well as Cass, Abita from Louisiana, and Wasatch and Squatters from Utah. Remove a clear piece of cartilage from the collar to reveal another delectable morsel. And then another. Then another. Served with ponzu dipping sauce and a little salad dressed with ginger sauce, it’s the gift that keeps on giving.
$10, $7 during happy hour, 124 S. 6th St., 702-750-0707, BochoSushi.com.