Although he knew that a steakhouse practically runs itself, Gerald Chin has hit his stride making Michael Mina’s StripSteak his own since taking over in 2013, tweaking the menu with more seasonal offerings, small plates and global influence. The meat-and-potatoes crowd has been eating it up as well, loving his additions, including Instant Bacon, a five-spiced-rubbed slab of pork belly that arrives trapped in a cloud of smoke, only to be released at the table. Sure, it might have been easier to sit back and let StripSteak’s impressive wagyu selection speak for itself, but Chin had to improve upon it, presenting it two ways. This fall, it’s kurobuta pork’s turn to be made into a duo. Chin is dedicated to the fundamentals of cooking, artfully using that knowledge to turn a dish on its head, so it makes perfect sense that he can take the concept he’s given, be innovative, and still color within the lines.
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